From Fingerboards to Campus Boards

Are you a climbing enthusiast looking to take your training to the next level? If so, you’ve likely come across the terms “fingerboards” and “campus boards” at some point. These training tools have become increasingly popular in the climbing community, but navigating the world of training equipment can be overwhelming. That’s why we’re here to help. In this blog post, we’ll dive into the world of fingerboards and campus boards, exploring their benefits and drawbacks, so you can make an informed decision on which one is right for you. Whether you’re a seasoned climber or just starting out, we’ve got you covered. Let’s get started!

What are fingerboards?

Fingerboards, also known as hangboards, are specialized training tools used by climbers to improve finger strength, endurance, and overall grip strength. They are typically made of wood or resin and consist of a series of holds and edges that mimic the types of holds found on climbing routes.

How are Fingerboards Used in Climbing Training?

Fingerboards are primarily used for strength training exercises that target the fingers, forearms, and upper body. By incorporating fingerboard workouts into their training routine, climbers can develop the necessary strength and endurance to tackle more challenging routes and bouldering problems.

Here are some common exercises and techniques used with fingerboards:

  1. Dead Hangs: This is the most basic and fundamental exercise performed on a fingerboard. Simply hang from a chosen hold or edge for a specific amount of time, focusing on maintaining proper form and engaging the muscles in the fingers and forearms.
  2. Pull-ups: Fingerboards often include different sizes and types of holds, allowing climbers to perform pull-ups using various grip positions. This exercise targets the entire upper body, including the back, shoulders, and arms, while also engaging the fingers and forearms.
  3. Repeaters: This exercise involves performing a series of hangs with short rests in between. It helps to improve both strength and endurance by challenging the muscles to work for an extended period under tension.
  4. Campus Training: Some fingerboards feature a series of rungs or small edges that are used for dynamic movements known as campus training. This technique is more advanced and should only be attempted by experienced climbers.

Types of Fingerboards

There are various types of fingerboards available in the market, each with its own unique features and advantages. Here are some popular options:

  1. Wooden Fingerboards: These fingerboards are typically made from high-quality wood and offer a natural feel and texture. They are known for their durability and aesthetic appeal. Wooden fingerboards often have a wide range of hold sizes and shapes to accommodate different training needs.
  2. Resin Fingerboards: Made from a durable and lightweight resin material, these fingerboards are known for their smooth texture and comfortable grip. Resin fingerboards often feature a wider variety of hold types, including slopers, pockets, and crimps.
  3. Portable Fingerboards: These fingerboards are designed to be easily transported and used in various locations. They are compact and lightweight, making them ideal for climbers who travel frequently or prefer to train at different locations.

Key Features and Advantages

When choosing a fingerboard, it is important to consider the following factors:

  • Hold Types: Look for fingerboards that offer a variety of hold sizes and types to target different finger and grip strengths.
  • Mounting Options: Consider how the fingerboard can be mounted, whether it’s through screws, bolts, or a doorway setup, to ensure it can be securely installed in your training space.
  • Texture and Grip: The texture and grip of a fingerboard can greatly affect your training experience. Consider the material and surface finish to find a fingerboard that feels comfortable and provides adequate friction.
  • Durability: Fingerboards should be able to withstand frequent and intense use, so opt for models made from high-quality materials that are built to last.

In summary, fingerboards are essential tools for climbers looking to improve their finger and grip strength. With a wide range of exercises and types to choose from, climbers can tailor their training to meet their specific needs and goals. Whether you’re a beginner or an experienced climber, incorporating fingerboard workouts into your training routine can help take your climbing ability to new heights.

What are Campus Boards?

Campus boards are a popular training tool used by climbers to improve their upper body strength, power, and coordination. They consist of a vertical wooden or synthetic board with a series of rungs or holds spaced at varying distances apart. While similar in concept to fingerboards, campus boards differ in terms of their design and the specific training benefits they offer.

How do they differ from Fingerboards?

  1. Design: Campus boards typically have larger, more widely spaced rungs compared to the smaller, closely spaced holds found on fingerboards. This design allows for dynamic movements and exercises that focus on explosive power and coordination.
  2. Training Focus: While fingerboards primarily target finger strength and grip, campus boards place greater emphasis on upper body power, coordination, and lock-off strength. They are commonly used by climbers looking to improve their ability to perform dynamic movements, such as campus dynos.

Benefits of Campus Boards

Campus boards offer climbers a range of benefits, making them a valuable addition to any training regimen. Here are some key advantages:

  1. Upper Body Strength: Campus boards are highly effective in developing upper body strength, particularly in the shoulders, arms, and back. The dynamic nature of the exercises helps to build power and muscular endurance.
  2. Power and Explosiveness: The explosive movements performed on campus boards train fast-twitch muscle fibers, allowing climbers to generate greater power and speed. This translates into improved performance on difficult and dynamic climbing sequences.
  3. Coordination and Body Control: Campus board training requires precise coordination between the arms and legs, helping climbers improve their body awareness and control. The challenging movements also enhance proprioception, which is essential for executing complex climbing sequences.
  4. Lock-Off Strength: Lock-off strength refers to the ability to hold a static position with one arm, while the other arm is engaged in a dynamic movement. Campus board exercises specifically target this aspect of climbing strength, helping climbers improve their ability to stabilize and control their body during difficult sequences.

Types of Campus Boards

There are several types of campus boards available, each with its own unique features and suitability for different training goals. Here are a few examples:

  1. Standard Campus Board: This basic design consists of evenly spaced rungs without any additional features. It is well-suited for climbers of all levels and is particularly effective for building power and coordination.
  2. Offset Campus Board: The rungs on an offset campus board are arranged in an alternating pattern, with one rung higher than the other. This design challenges climbers to perform dynamic movements with uneven grips, enhancing their body control and adaptability to different holds.
  3. Symmetrical Campus Board: A symmetrical campus board has evenly spaced rungs on both sides, allowing climbers to train both arms equally. This type of board is ideal for improving overall upper body strength and coordination.

Comparison of fingerboards and campus boards

When it comes to training tools for climbers, fingerboards and campus boards are two popular options that can greatly enhance strength and technique. In this section, we will delve into the details and compare the pros and cons of each tool. By understanding their differences, you’ll be able to choose the one that best suits your specific training needs.

Versatility

Fingerboards

  • Designed to simulate climbing holds, allowing climbers to work on finger strength and endurance.
  • Provides a wide range of grip positions and sizes, allowing for varied training sessions.
  • Can be mounted on a wall or doorway, making it accessible for home training.
  • Suitable for climbers of all levels, from beginners to advanced.

Campus Boards

  • Primarily focus on explosive upper body power and dynamic movements.
  • Consist of a series of rungs or bars, often arranged in a ladder-like formation.
  • Training on campus boards involves dynamic movements such as laddering up and down the rungs.
  • Requires higher levels of strength and technique, making it more suitable for intermediate to advanced climbers.

Targeted Muscle Groups

Fingerboards

  • Mainly target the finger flexor muscles, including the forearm muscles.
  • Develop finger strength, grip strength, and forearm endurance.
  • Also engage the upper body muscles to a lesser extent, including the biceps and shoulders.

Campus Boards

  • Primarily target the upper body muscles, including the biceps, shoulders, and forearms.
  • Develop explosive power, upper body strength, and coordination.
  • Engage the leg muscles to a lesser extent, specifically when performing dynamic movements.

Skill Development

Fingerboards

  • Ideal for climbers aiming to improve finger strength, grip strength, and endurance.
  • Allows climbers to focus on specific grip types and finger positions, enhancing technique for different climbing holds.
  • Develops finger strength required for crimps, pockets, and small edges.

Campus Boards

  • Suitable for climbers looking to enhance explosive power and dynamic movements.
  • Improves coordination and timing for powerful moves during climbing.
  • Helps develop the ability to generate momentum and control during dynamic sequences.

Injury Risks

Fingerboards

  • Potential risk of finger injuries, such as tendon strains or pulley sprains, if proper warm-up and caution are not followed.
  • Beginners should start with less intense and shorter sessions to avoid overloading their fingers.

Campus Boards

  • Higher risk of shoulder and finger injuries due to the dynamic and high-intensity nature of the exercises.
  • Proper warm-up, technique, and gradual progression are crucial to minimize injury risks.
  • Not recommended for climbers with existing shoulder or finger issues.

Tips for incorporating fingerboards or campus boards into your training

As climbers, we are always looking for ways to improve our strength and technique. Fingerboards and campus boards are two popular tools that can help take our training to the next level. In this blog post, we will provide you with practical tips and recommendations for incorporating these training tools into your routine. By following these guidelines, you can maximize the benefits of fingerboards and campus boards while minimizing the risk of injuries.

Proper Usage of Fingerboards

A fingerboard, also known as a hangboard, is a training tool designed to develop finger strength and endurance. Here are some tips on how to use fingerboards effectively:

  • Warm-up: Before starting any fingerboard training, it is crucial to warm up your fingers, wrists, and forearms properly. This can be done through light stretching, finger exercises, or climbing easy routes or problems.
  • Grip Variations: Fingerboards offer a variety of grip options, such as pinches, crimps, slopers, and pockets. It is essential to train all these grip types to develop well-rounded finger strength.
  • Progression: Start with easier holds and gradually increase the difficulty as your strength improves. Avoid attempting advanced holds too soon, as this may lead to injuries.
  • Rest and Recovery: Allow sufficient rest and recovery time between fingerboard sessions to avoid overuse injuries. It is recommended to alternate training days with rest days or engage in other climbing-related activities.

Training Protocols for Campus Boards

Campus boards are another valuable training tool that focuses on explosive upper body power and dynamic movements. Here are some tips on how to incorporate campus board training into your routine:

  • Warm-up: Just like with fingerboarding, it is crucial to warm up your upper body and fingers before campus board training. Incorporate dynamic stretching exercises and light climbing to prepare your muscles for the intense workout.
  • Foot Placement: Pay attention to your foot placement when using the campus board. Start with both feet on the ground and gradually progress to more advanced exercises that involve one-foot dynos or double dynos.
  • Controlled Movements: Perform each movement on the campus board with control and precision. Avoid relying solely on momentum, as this may increase the risk of injuries. Focus on engaging your core and using your upper body muscles effectively.
  • Gradual Progression: Start with easier exercises, such as ladder drills or matched moves, before attempting more challenging exercises like one-arm movements or big dynamic moves. Gradually increase the difficulty to avoid overexertion.

Safety Precautions

While fingerboards and campus boards are excellent training tools, it is crucial to prioritize safety to prevent injuries. Here are some safety precautions to keep in mind:

  • Proper Warm-up and Cool-down: Always warm up your muscles before training and cool down afterward. This helps to reduce the risk of strains or sprains.
  • Listen to Your Body: Pay attention to any pain or discomfort during training. If you experience sharp or persistent pain, it is advisable to rest and seek medical advice if necessary.
  • Gradual Progression: Do not rush into advanced exercises or overload your training volume too quickly. Gradually increase the difficulty and intensity of your workouts to avoid overtraining and minimize the risk of injuries.
  • Rest and Recovery: Allow for adequate rest and recovery time between sessions. This allows your muscles to repair and grow stronger, reducing the risk of overuse injuries.
  • Proper Form: Focus on maintaining proper form and technique while using fingerboards and campus boards. Poor form can increase the risk of injuries and limit the effectiveness of your training.

Incorporating fingerboards or campus boards into your training routine can greatly enhance your climbing performance. By following these tips and safety precautions, you can optimize your training sessions, build strength, and reduce the risk of injuries. Remember, consistency, patience, and listening to your body are key to achieving long-term progress and success in climbing. So, don’t hesitate to incorporate these valuable tools into your training regimen and take your climbing to new heights!

The Journey of Progression and Growth

In summary, when it comes to climbing training, fingerboards and campus boards offer unique advantages. However, the decision on which tool to use should be made after careful consideration of personal goals, training objectives, and individual capabilities. By doing so, climbers can ensure a safe and effective training routine that helps them progress and reach their climbing goals.